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Piz Badile 3,308 m
Climbing Piz Badile. Ascent routes, difficulty and the best time for the climb.
3308 m. (10, 853 ft.)
Italy
Switzerland
Ascent route
Fitness difficulty
5/10
Technical difficulty
6/10
Summary
Badile, which translates from Italian as "shovel", lies in the Alps, in the Bregaglia (Bergell) range; the summit is on the Swiss–Italian border. It is a granite monolith that impresses above all with its 900 m high north-east face.
The legendary French mountaineer Gaston Rébuffat said of it: "A smooth, sheer, regular wall, evoking the idea of perfection."
This face is also included in the prestigious list of the "6 great faces of the Alps".
The legendary French mountaineer Gaston Rébuffat said of it: "A smooth, sheer, regular wall, evoking the idea of perfection."
This face is also included in the prestigious list of the "6 great faces of the Alps".
Ascent options
Routes:
Here I will mention only the 2 most popular – both from the Swiss side; for both routes, including the approach, descent and return, you should allow at least 3 days!
Nordkante – difficulty V (5a), climbing length 1000 m, climbing time 6–8 hrs to the summit + 1.5 hrs approach from the hut, one of the most magnificent ridge climbs in the Alps, a superclassic that should not be missing from your list. More than 1,000 metres of excellent climbing on solid granite await you (30 pitches)
The route follows the edge almost the entire way, with a few exceptions. When it leaves the edge it always goes into the west face (to the right) and always returns immediately to the edge. Never climb out onto the smooth and steep north-east face (to the left). So when leaving the edge, always turn right onto the west face and return to it as quickly as possible. Only at the fore-summit, where the ridge begins to lay back, is the ridge bypassed on the eastern (left) side. The belay stations are equipped with fixed anchor points (a ring or bolt); on the harder climbing sections you will also find running protection. On the easier sections, for faster progress, I recommend climbing simultaneously with running protection between the climbers.
Cassin route – 800 m, difficulty VI (6a) TD, 21 pitches until joining the Nordkante on the summit ridge, from there 4–5 pitches on easier terrain to the summit. Climbing on top-quality granite, demanding in terms of route-finding, with long run-outs from protection, mostly on your own protection; belay stations equipped with fixed gear (bolts, rivets). After topping out, I recommend spending the night in the bivouac hut on the main summit and descending the next day; if you have time in reserve, abseil down the Nordkante route (demanding route-finding) back to the Swiss side.
- The first ascent of the summit via the south ridge – today's normal route from the Italian side – was made in 1867 by W. A. B. Coolidge and the mountain guides F. Dévouassoud and H. Dévouassoud, difficulty II.
- The first ascent of the north edge (the popular Nordkante or Badilekante) dates from 1923 (W. Risch and A. Zürcher), difficulty V-, and it is one of the finest classic alpine climbing routes.
- The first ascent of the north-east face – today the Cassin route – was made in 1937 over 3 days by the elite Italian climbers R. Cassin, G. Esposito and V. Ratti, who were joined on the face by two young climbers from Como. The route's difficulty is (V+/A0 or VI+).
- Several other but very demanding climbing routes lead up the north-east face and the north face, for very experienced teams.
Here I will mention only the 2 most popular – both from the Swiss side; for both routes, including the approach, descent and return, you should allow at least 3 days!
Nordkante – difficulty V (5a), climbing length 1000 m, climbing time 6–8 hrs to the summit + 1.5 hrs approach from the hut, one of the most magnificent ridge climbs in the Alps, a superclassic that should not be missing from your list. More than 1,000 metres of excellent climbing on solid granite await you (30 pitches)
The route follows the edge almost the entire way, with a few exceptions. When it leaves the edge it always goes into the west face (to the right) and always returns immediately to the edge. Never climb out onto the smooth and steep north-east face (to the left). So when leaving the edge, always turn right onto the west face and return to it as quickly as possible. Only at the fore-summit, where the ridge begins to lay back, is the ridge bypassed on the eastern (left) side. The belay stations are equipped with fixed anchor points (a ring or bolt); on the harder climbing sections you will also find running protection. On the easier sections, for faster progress, I recommend climbing simultaneously with running protection between the climbers.
Cassin route – 800 m, difficulty VI (6a) TD, 21 pitches until joining the Nordkante on the summit ridge, from there 4–5 pitches on easier terrain to the summit. Climbing on top-quality granite, demanding in terms of route-finding, with long run-outs from protection, mostly on your own protection; belay stations equipped with fixed gear (bolts, rivets). After topping out, I recommend spending the night in the bivouac hut on the main summit and descending the next day; if you have time in reserve, abseil down the Nordkante route (demanding route-finding) back to the Swiss side.
Best time
When is the best time for the climb?
Since this is purely rock climbing, the suitable season is summer and autumn until the first snowfall arrives. Depending on the season and the weather (especially at the beginning of summer), snowfields may await you on the approach below the face from the Swiss side (crampons and an ice axe come in handy).
Since this is purely rock climbing, the suitable season is summer and autumn until the first snowfall arrives. Depending on the season and the weather (especially at the beginning of summer), snowfields may await you on the approach below the face from the Swiss side (crampons and an ice axe come in handy).
Required equipment
A 60-metre rope should be standard, and for the Cassin route 2 x 60 m, a set of cams or nuts, 8 quickdraws, slings with carabiners, and a device for belaying and bringing up your climbing partner. Be sure to pack a headlamp, gear for an emergency bivouac, a mobile phone and cash (francs and euros) in your backpack.
Accommodation
The starting point is the village of Bondo near the well-known resort of Sankt Moritz. From there a mountain trail leads to the Sasc Furä hut, where it is good to spend the night. For the outdoor type I recommend camping higher up in the valley – closer to the base of the climb. In summer, after the snowfields melt, getting water in the valley is a problem. After climbing the routes to the summit you have 3 options. Descend via the Nordkante, spend the night on the summit in the small metal bivouac and descend the next day to either the Italian or the Swiss side, or descend the Italian normal route to the Gianetti hut. From Italy you can return to the hut/tent via a tour over 2 saddles, or descend into the Masino valley and return by bus/taxi.
https://www.sascfura.ch/index_en.html
https://www.prenotarifugi.cai.it/en/detail/Rifugio%20Gianetti/?id=5778
https://www.sascfura.ch/index_en.html
https://www.prenotarifugi.cai.it/en/detail/Rifugio%20Gianetti/?id=5778
Location
Ascent route
Fitness difficulty
5/10
Technical difficulty
6/10
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