Matterhorn

Summary
The Matterhorn (Monte Cervino) is not the highest, but it is certainly  one of the most iconic and recognizable peaks in the world. It lies in the Valais Alps, on the border between Switzerland and Italy. With its almost symmetrical pyramid shape, it is impossible to miss. The four ridges and four faces of the Matterhorn are aligned almost perfectly with the cardinal directions (north, east, south and west).

The first successful ascent of the Matterhorn took place on 14 July 1865, led by Edward Whymper via the Hörnli ridge. This climb marked a significant moment in the history of mountaineering, but it ended tragically when four of the seven climbers died during the descent. The broken rope from this expedition is kept in a museum in Zermatt. In any case, this pioneering feat opened the way to a summit that today is reached every year by hundreds of well-prepared climbers.

Difficulty and routes
 
Difficulty always depends on the chosen route. Here are the main ridges:
 
● Route 1 - Hörnli (German Hörnligrat): North-east – considered the easiest and most popular route, 1200 metres of elevation gain from the Hörnli hut, alpine grade AD, UIAA grade III on rock (using fixed ropes), 45° on snow/ice
● Route 2 - Lion (Leone): South-west ridge – the Italian route and a step up in difficulty compared with the Hörnli, 650 metres of elevation gain from the Carrel hut. Alpine grade AD+, UIAA grade III on rock (using fixed ropes), 45° on snow/ice
● Route 3 - Zmutt: North-west ridge – alpine grade TD (very demanding), UIAA grade around VI, no hut!
● Route 4 - Furggen (Furggengrat): South-east ridge – the most demanding route, alpine grade TD (very demanding), UIAA grade around VI, no hut!

All of these routes involve rock climbing along the ridge and on the face; the upper sections of the mountain are covered with snow/ice even in summer, the ascent is long (up and down in a single day!), the upper sections are all very exposed, and route-finding is difficult in some parts. The steepest sections on the Lion and Hörnli ridges are equipped with thick fixed ropes as well as some fixed gear on the route (bolts, pitons); some pitons are off-route (mistakes – do not use!!!). You must always stay on the correct route; any detour increases the risk of rockfall and a fall!

Summer is usually the best time for the ascent. On the classic routes you move faster when there is no snow and you can manage most of the route without crampons. The summit is almost always covered with snow/ice. The exception is the north face, where you need good winter conditions for a fast and safe ascent – hard snow and ice. There, the ideal conditions are usually in early and late winter (November, December and March/April).

Equipment
Single  ropes from 40 m to 60 m depending on the chosen route and belay technique, slings, carabiners,  on the Zmutt and Furggen ridges also some pitons and a hammer, mountaineering boots that can take crampons, crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, sunglasses. For the north face, additionally winter gear, a double rope and 2 ice axes.

It depends on which route you prefer. The best "base camp" for the Hörnli, Zmutt and Furggen routes is Zermatt (Switzerland) – a beautiful but expensive holiday spot. A cheaper option is to stay in the Mattertal valley (guesthouses and campsites in the villages of Randa and Täsch). On the opposite – Italian – side of the range lies the village of Le Breuil-Cervinia (the best start for the Lion ridge). The Swiss normal route – the Hörnli ridge – is accessed from the Hörnli hut, while for the Italian normal route – the Lion ridge – it is ideal to reach the Carrel bivouac a day in advance. Both huts require advance reservation.