Gerlach Peak

Gerlachovský štít – Gerlach for short – is the highest peak of the High Tatras, of the Slovak Republic, and at the same time of the Carpathian range, which sweeps in a great arc through Slovakia, Poland, Ukraine and Romania. It is a granite giant of the Tatras, where route-finding is not entirely straightforward. The Gerlach massif sits almost in the centre of the range, and since it is also the highest peak, the views from it in all directions are breathtaking in good weather. Many ascent routes lead up Gerlach, most of them demanding either technically or in terms of route-finding. The easiest routes, the so-called normal routes, are the ascents via the Velická próba and via the Batizovská próba. They require no previous climbing experience, but good physical fitness and experience moving in the mountains are necessary. The longest ascent route to the summit is Martin's Route – a ridge traverse starting at the Poľský hrebeň saddle and largely following the main ridge of the High Tatras. Since it lies within a National Park, where certain rules and restrictions apply for the protection of nature, the ascent is permitted only to climbers who are members of Slovak or foreign climbing clubs and to people guided by certified IFMGA mountain guides.

• The ascents via the Velická and Batizovská próba are considered easy; on some sections they reach difficulty II of the UIAA classification, with a total elevation gain of 1,100 m and a total time of 7 to 8 hours there and back from the starting point – the Sliezsky dom mountain hotel
   
• The ascent via Martin's Route – difficulty III UIAA, lasting around 10 hours; the shortened version of Martin's Route to the Gerlach saddle takes 8 hours (ascent and descent together) 
   
• All the other routes are higher in both climbing and time difficulty; the hardest climbing route on Gerlach currently has 12 pitches and a climbing difficulty of VIII (French 7a).

All the routes lead through high-mountain rocky terrain, exposed in several places, where good, sure movement and the ability to belay are required. There is no via ferrata on Gerlach! A professional mountain rescue service – HZS – operates in the High Tatras; I recommend having mountain insurance in place in case a rescue is needed.

Climbing Gerlach is possible in both the summer and winter seasons. Winter in the Tatras is similar to that in the Alps – often windy, with deep or, conversely, hard snow, and short days. I rather recommend choosing the summer season, from 1 June to 31 October. An ascent in the summer months is more comfortable, with a greater chance of good weather and views. The first half of summer in the High Tatras tends to be stormy, so it is advisable to start the ascent very early in the morning; in the second half of summer and in autumn the weather is usually more stable.

For the ascent you need sturdy footwear (climbing shoes for the climbing routes), a climbing harness, a helmet, carabiners, slings, a climbing rope at least 30 m long, clothing protecting against rain and wind, and equipment for emergencies (headlamp, mobile phone, first-aid kit, an insulated spare layer).

The starting point and gateway to the High Tatras is the town of Poprad, with good road and rail connections. Poprad also has a small airport with a regular flight to London. The High Tatras are Slovakia's top recreational destination, with abundant accommodation options ranging from family guesthouses through hotels to lodging in high-mountain huts. For the ascent of Gerlach itself, the starting point is the Sliezsky dom mountain hotel, lying at an altitude of 1,670 m a.s.l. I can arrange accommodation to suit those interested in the climb.

https://www.tatry.sk/