Dufourspitze

Swiss giant
4634 m. (15, 203 ft.)
Italy Italy
Switzerland Switzerland
Dufourspitze
Ascent route
Fitness difficulty 7/10
Technical difficulty 7/10

Summary

Dufourspitze or Punta Dufor   is highest peak in Monte Rosa group and also highest peak of Switzerland and second highest in Alps. He was renamed in honour of Guillaume Henri Dufour - Swiss military officer, topographer and one of the founder  International Red Cross. In Monte Rosa masíve are nine more 4000 meters peaks relatívely easy reachable - tip for collectors.
 

Ascent options

There are several routes to get to the top of Dufour, a route over the west ridge - from Swiss side -  now forms as the normal route. Long Glacier Trip with short technical section under the summit.
 
The climb starts and ends in the iconic town of Zermatt. To climb this route, you need to book 3 days with 2 nights spent at the Monte Rosa hut. There is also the option to book a heli taxi and fly directly to Zermatt from an altitude of 4000 after descending from the summit. This will save you a lengthy descent, one night at the hut and one full day. In spring and even early summer, if there is enough snow on the glacier, it is possible to complete this route on skis. The descent will probably be your longest ski ride in your life.
 
From italian side is best possiblity take SE ridge - from Margerita Hut - shorter but more technical. Here you cross a rocky ridge - the state border between Italy and Switzerland with climbing difficulties up to Level 3. The route is partially equipped with fixed belay points. It is also possible to descend back to the Italian side.

Best time

The season for the ascent strongly depends on the condition of the glaciers. Ski tours via depending also on the amount of snow there, the best done in spring up to the beginning of summer. Classic ascents by the normal route are best in the first half of summer. For the rock and mixed routes you need to catch good conditions – mostly in the first half of the summer season.
 

Required equipment

For all of the routes listed above you need high, insulated mountaineering boots, a climbing harness, a helmet, carabiners, slings, a climbing rope at least 30 m long (in case of rappelling down to Silber saddle  a 60 m rope is suitable) crampons, an ice axe, 2 ice screws + crevasse-rescue equipment,  clothing suitable for cold weather and at the same time resistant  to rain and wind, two pairs of gloves, face protection against the wind, ski goggles and sunglasses, sunscreen, equipment  for emergencies (headlamp, mobile phone, first-aid kit, spare layer, bivouac bag, extra food and a hot drink in a thermos).

Accommodation

If you want to climb the Swiss side, you need to book accommodation in Zermatt or lower in the Mattertal valley. The key to the climb is the Monte Rosa hut at 2883 m.a.s.l. where you need to spend at least one night before the climb, ideally a second one after the descent. From the Italian side, it starts in the town of Gressoney la Trinité and the Staffal ski resort, from where you can take the cable cars and the glacier to the Italian huts of Mantova, Gnifetti or Regina Margerita.

Location

Ascent route
Fitness difficulty 7/10
Technical difficulty 7/10

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